Wrangell, the Alaskan Frontier Spirit

On the northern tip of Wrangell Island lies the small town of Wrangell. As the second non-Native settlement in Southeast Alaska, Wrangell expectedly has a rich history, most notably a spirit for reinvention that thrives today.

Walking into Wrangell looks like walking into a town from the wild west.

            In 1833, the Russians established a fort on what is now Wrangell Harbor and called it Redoubt Saint Dionysius. Their goal for the settlement was largely to stop the British from moving in and establishing a fur trade operation. But six years later, the settlement passed into British hands when the Russians leased it for a period of ten years to the Hudson’s Bay Company in exchange for 2,000 otter skins annually. Such a deal!

            The British renamed it Fort Stikine, given its close proximity to the Stikine River, and it quickly became a major trading post with the Tlingit Indians who lived along the delta and neighboring islands. The Tlingits exchanged furs for manufactured items, and were particularly fond of the thick wool Hudson’s Bay blankets.

Lora took a liking to local pirate.

Interestingly, we happen to have two of those blankets on board ... so if we run into any Tlingits we’re well prepared!

            When Alaska was sold to the U.S. in 1867, the area changed names a third time and became known as Fort Wrangell, and became an on-again off-again boom town for three different gold rushes in the area. After the gold rush, timber and canning became the primary industries in Wrangell. But the timber industry hit a major decline in the last decade, more than cutting Wrangell’s population in half, from more than 4,000 to around 1,700 today.

            Unlike other towns in Alaska, Wrangell is not so anxious to open its doors to the cruise ships, and resulting tourism. Instead, they are reinventing themselves again and building up a strong fishing and shipping industry, including an impressive city-owned shipyard.

            When we arrived at Heritage Harbor, just as we finished tying up lines we were treated to an up close and personal show by a number of mature and juvenile eagles next to us on the breakwall, enjoying treats left between the rocks thanks to a low tide.

           

We walked about a mile into town, enjoying sights along the way, including a walk through their Totem Park. The town itself is just what you would imagine if you think of the Alaskan frontier. Colorful store fonts line a wide open street down to the water where the Stikine Inn takes center stage, and serves perhaps the best halibut and chips I’ve ever tasted.